Tripods can feel like either a life-saver or a burden. They’re awkward to carry, a pain to set up, and easy to forget at home. But when used correctly, they can completely change the quality and consistency of your photos.

In this article, I’ll break down when you actually need a tripod, when you can leave it behind, and how to use one to take your images from good to great. Whether you’re shooting landscapes, portraits, or video content, you’ll find practical tips you can start using today.

Table of Contents

• Use a Tripod for Long Exposures
• Tripods for Landscape Photography
• Why a Tripod is a Must for Video Shooters
• When Not to Use a Tripod
• Travel-Friendly Tripod Options
• Practice Enhances Confidence
• FAQs

Use a Tripod for Long Exposures

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One of the most common reasons photographers reach for a tripod is long exposure photography. Shooting at night? You need a tripod. Capturing silky waterfalls? Tripod. Star trails? Absolutely.

Even the steadiest hands can’t keep a camera still for several seconds. Without a tripod, long exposure images turn into blurry messes. A sturdy tripod ensures your camera stays perfectly still while the shutter is open.

Personally, I love using a tripod for cityscapes at night. The light trails, the glowing signs—everything comes to life with long exposures. You simply can’t get that handheld.

So if you’re exploring low-light photography or want creative blur in your shots, your tripod isn’t optional—it’s essential.

Tripods for Landscape Photography

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Landscape photography often requires patience and precision. A tripod helps with both. It allows you to slow down and carefully compose your shot without worrying about movement.

Tripods are especially useful during sunrise or sunset when light levels are low. You’ll likely be using a narrow aperture (like f/11 or f/16) and a low ISO to keep your images crisp and clean. Those settings demand longer shutter speeds, and that’s tripod territory.

Another benefit? You can keep your framing consistent while you wait for the perfect light. You don’t have to hold your camera in position for 20 minutes while the sun does its thing.

I’ve captured some of my favorite landscapes by setting up a tripod, dialing in the composition, and simply waiting. Without it, I would’ve either missed the shot or dealt with frustrating blur.

Why a Tripod is a Must for Video Shooters

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Let’s talk video. If your goal is clean, stable footage, a tripod is one of the best investments you can make. Whether you’re filming yourself talking to the camera or capturing b-roll, shaky footage can make your content look amateur.

Using a tripod also frees up your hands, which is a blessing when recording longer takes or switching between different angles. A quality video tripod with a fluid head can also help you achieve smooth pans and tilts.

I use a tripod any time I’m shooting YouTube content or interviews. It’s not just about stability—it’s about professionalism. And when you’re trying to grow an audience, that matters.

If video is part of your workflow, your tripod should always be part of your kit.

When Not to Use a Tripod

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There are definitely times when a tripod is more trouble than it’s worth. Street photography, for example, is usually fast-paced and unpredictable. Setting up a tripod on a sidewalk can not only slow you down but also draw unwanted attention.

Events like weddings or concerts are also tricky. You need to move quickly, react to changing moments, and stay out of the way. A tripod in a busy aisle can be more of a hazard than a help.

In these cases, faster shutter speeds and image stabilization features are your best tools. Leave the tripod at home and focus on mobility.

That said, if you’re doing time-lapse or static wide shots, a tripod still might have a role. Just choose your moments carefully.

Travel-Friendly Tripod Options

One reason people avoid using tripods is portability. They’re often bulky, heavy, and annoying to carry. Luckily, there are plenty of compact, lightweight options out there.

Look for carbon fiber tripods if weight is a concern. Some models fold down small enough to fit inside a carry-on bag. Travel tripods also tend to have fewer leg sections, which makes setup faster.

For ultra-light travel, I sometimes use a mini tabletop tripod or even a clamp mount, depending on the situation. They’re not as stable, but in a pinch, they’re better than nothing.

Bringing a tripod doesn’t have to mean breaking your back. Just match the gear to the trip and shoot smart. Have a look at our video above to scope out some of Alex’s favorite tripods!

Practice Enhances Confidence

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Here’s the truth: the more you use your tripod, the more intuitive it becomes. At first, it feels slow and clunky. But give it time, and it becomes a tool you can set up in seconds—even in the dark.

I recommend practicing tripod use at home or on casual shoots. Get comfortable with adjusting the legs, leveling your camera, and finding the right height. It’ll pay off big-time when you need to work quickly on location.

Don’t be afraid to experiment. Use your tripod in new ways—vertical orientation, low-angle shots, or bracketed exposures for HDR.

In the end, confidence with your gear leads to more creative freedom—and better photos.

FAQ

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Do I need a tripod for photography as a beginner?

Not always, but it helps. If you’re shooting in low light or want to experiment with long exposures, a tripod is a smart early investment.

What’s the best tripod for travel?

Look for a lightweight, compact tripod made of carbon fiber. Brands like Peak Design, Manfrotto, and Benro offer solid options for travel.

Can I shoot professional video without a tripod?

You can, but it’s hard to get smooth, stable footage without one. A tripod gives you consistent framing and a professional look, especially for interviews or talking head videos.

Are there alternatives to using a tripod?

Yes—monopods, gimbals, bean bags, or even resting your camera on a stable surface can work in a pinch. But for sharp stills and smooth video, a tripod is tough to beat.

So do you really need a tripod? Maybe not all the time—but when you do, it makes all the difference. Learn how and when to use one, and your photography will thank you.

Heads up: Clicking on our affiliate links and exploring our sponsored content helps us at no extra cost to you, and we only recommend gear we’re absolutely crazy about!

Learn More:

• Shoot Happens – The Exposure Triangle
• Shoot Happens – Shutter Speed Explained

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One of the first big decisions new photographers face is choosing between a prime or zoom lens. It’s a question that sounds simple on the surface, but the answer depends on your shooting style, budget, and long-term goals. With so many lenses out there, it’s easy to get overwhelmed by the options.

The good news? You don’t need to be a gear expert to make the right call. In fact, understanding just a few key differences between prime and zoom lenses can help you make a smart decision that improves your photography right away.

In this guide, we’ll break down the pros and cons of each lens type, give you real-world examples, and help you figure out whether a prime or zoom lens should be your first purchase. Let’s dive in.

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For beginner photographers, ISO can seem like one of those technical settings you should just leave alone. But once you understand what ISO really does, it becomes a powerful tool you can use to take control of your images.

In this guide, we’ll quickly demystify ISO and show you how to use it like a pro. Be sure to check out our complete guide to ISO for even more tips and tricks!

Table of Contents

• What Is ISO?
• How ISO Affects Your Photos
• Real-World Examples of Using ISO
• ISO Tips for Beginners

What Is ISO?

ISO is one of the three main pillars of exposure in photography, alongside aperture and shutter speed. It controls your camera’s sensitivity to light. The lower the ISO number, the less sensitive your camera sensor is. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive it becomes.

Most cameras have ISO settings that start around 100 and go up to 6400 or even higher, depending on the model. ISO 100 is typically used in bright daylight when there’s plenty of available light. On the other hand, ISO 1600 or more is commonly used in low-light situations where your camera needs a little extra help to capture the scene.

It’s important to remember that ISO doesn’t add light to the scene—it simply tells your camera how much light to register. So using ISO effectively is all about balance. A well-exposed photo often relies on the right combination of ISO, aperture, and shutter speed.

Understanding how ISO works also gives you more creative freedom. You’ll be able to capture clear images even when lighting conditions aren’t ideal—and that’s a game changer.

How ISO Affects Your Photos

ISO directly affects two main things in your photos: brightness and image quality. As you increase ISO, your photos will appear brighter. That’s why it’s useful in dim environments. But higher ISO comes at a cost—image noise or grain.

Noise appears as random speckles or a gritty texture in your photos, especially in the darker areas, as shown above. While some cameras handle high ISO levels better than others, it’s generally true that the higher the ISO, the more noise you’ll see.

For example, an image taken at ISO 100 will be clean and sharp, especially in good lighting. That same image taken at ISO 3200 may look brighter, but it could also look fuzzy or soft due to the digital noise. That’s why photographers often aim to use the lowest ISO possible while still getting a proper exposure.

The trick is to find the right balance. If it’s a choice between a slightly noisy photo and a blurry one due to a slow shutter speed, higher ISO is usually the better option. Modern cameras do a great job minimizing noise, so don’t be afraid to raise your ISO when you need to.

Real-World Examples of Using ISO

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Let’s say you’re taking portraits on a sunny day in the park. You probably won’t need an ISO higher than 100 or 200. There’s plenty of light, and using a low ISO will give you clean, crisp images with little to no noise.

Now imagine you’re indoors shooting a birthday party in the evening. The lights are dim, and flash might ruin the mood. This is where you’d bump up the ISO—maybe to 1600 or even 3200—so your camera can pick up more light without needing a slow shutter speed that could cause blur.

Photo by Marti Bug Catcher via Shutterstock

If you’re shooting night landscapes or astrophotography, higher ISO settings like 3200 or even 6400 might be necessary to capture faint light. These situations naturally call for more sensitivity, though you’ll want to balance that with long exposures and possibly noise reduction in editing.

Different situations require different ISO settings, and the best way to learn what works is to try it yourself. Test different ISO levels in various lighting and take note of the results—it’s one of the fastest ways to improve your understanding.

ISO Tips for Beginners

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If you’re just starting out, the idea of manually changing ISO might feel overwhelming—but it doesn’t have to be. Start by switching your camera to Aperture Priority (A or Av mode) and manually set the ISO. Let the camera handle shutter speed while you experiment with ISO values.

In well-lit environments, keep your ISO at 100 or 200. As lighting gets dimmer, increase it gradually—try ISO 800, then 1600, and so on. Pay attention to how brightness and noise change in your photos.

Use your camera’s screen or viewfinder to preview the effect of different ISO levels before taking the shot. Many newer cameras also have an Auto ISO mode that can be customized with limits—this is a great tool if you want a little help from your camera without giving up control.

Finally, don’t stress too much about noise. A slightly grainy photo that captures the moment is always better than a technically perfect photo that misses it. With practice, choosing the right ISO will become second nature—and your photos will thank you for it!

Our articles might have affiliate links and the occasional sponsored content, but don’t sweat it – if you buy something, we get a little kickback at no extra cost to you, and we only hype products we truly believe in!

Learn More:

• Shoot Happens – Aperture Explained
• A Beginner’s Guide to Aperture and Depth of Field

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Welcome to Shoot Happens—my no-fluff, straight-to-the-point beginner series where I take essential photography concepts and break them down in plain English. In this article, we’re talking all about shutter speed: what it is, why it matters, and how to use it without messing up your shots. So, let’s dive right in—because when in doubt, shoot anyway. After all, Shoot Happens!

Table of Contents

• What is Shutter Speed?
• Why Shutter Speed Matters
• How to Avoid Shaky Shots
• Shutter Speed and Exposure
• Getting Creative with Shutter Speed
• Final Thoughts

What is Shutter Speed?

The shutter in your camera works kind of like an eyelid. It opens and closes to let in light when you take a photo. Shutter speed is simply how long that shutter stays open. Measured in fractions of a second—like 1/60, 1/250, or 1/1000—it determines how much light hits your camera’s sensor, and more importantly, whether motion gets frozen or blurred.

If you think about your camera blinking, a quick blink—say, 1/1000 of a second—freezes action. That’s the setting you want for capturing things like sports, wildlife, or your kid jumping off a swing. A slow blink—like a one-second shutter—lets in more light and shows motion blur. That’s how you get those dreamy waterfall shots or light trails from cars at night.

When I was first learning, I remember trying to take a photo of a BMX rider mid-air using a slow shutter. The result? A big blurry mess. That’s when it clicked—shutter speed is everything when it comes to sharpness and motion. Whether you want to freeze action or embrace the blur, knowing how your shutter works is non-negotiable.

Get a more detailed look at shutter speed in this comprehensive shutter speed guide for beginners.

Why Shutter Speed Matters

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Shutter speed controls not just how light or dark your photo is—it controls the feel of it. Want a tack-sharp image of a bird in flight? You need a fast shutter. Want a flowing river to look smooth and serene? Use a slow one. Understanding this gives you more control over your images and takes your photography from random snaps to intentional art.

Here’s an example: Try shooting fast movement, like your kid running at the park, with a shutter speed of 1/60 seconds. Every fast movement will end up blurred. Then bump it up to 1/500. With that single settings change, you’ll get tack-sharp results. Same park, same lighting, same kid—but the shutter speed change will make all the difference.

So next time you want to capture motion, ask yourself: do I want to freeze it or blur it? Your shutter speed is your tool for making that creative decision.

How to Avoid Shaky Shots

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Handheld photography is where many beginners first run into problems. If your shutter is too slow and you’re not using a tripod, even the tiniest movement from your hands can cause blur. That’s where the age-old rule of thumb comes in: your shutter speed should be at least as fast as your focal length. So, for example, if you’re using a 50mm lens, you should aim for 1/60 or faster.

When I shoot with my 100mm lens, I always aim for 1/125 or faster unless I’m locked down on a tripod. Trying to shoot handheld at 1/30 with that lens is like asking for blur. Once you start paying attention to that, your keeper rate will jump up big time.

Also, practice keeping steady. Tuck in your elbows, breathe out slowly, and press the shutter gently. But when in doubt—tripod it out!

Shutter Speed and Exposure

Shutter speed doesn’t work in a vacuum—it’s one part of the exposure triangle, along with aperture and ISO. The longer your shutter stays open, the more light it lets in. That’s great in low light, but it can also lead to overexposed photos if you’re not careful.

If you slow your shutter to let in more light, you may need to narrow your aperture or lower your ISO to avoid blowing out the highlights. And vice versa—if you want to use a fast shutter to freeze action, you might need to open your aperture wider or raise your ISO to compensate.

This balancing act becomes second nature over time. Just remember: every decision you make with your shutter affects your exposure, and every exposure choice affects the creative outcome of your image.

Getting Creative with Shutter Speed

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Once you understand the basics, shutter speed becomes a creative tool. Want to show the speed of a moving car? Try panning with a slower shutter like 1/30 while following the car. The background blurs, but the car stays sharp. It’s an awesome effect that adds drama and movement.

Or maybe you’re into night photography. A 10-second shutter can turn headlights into glowing trails. Want to capture the stars? You’ll be working with shutter times of 15 seconds or more, often with a remote shutter release to avoid shaking the camera.

Some of my favorite images were born from experimenting with the shutter—blurry dancers at a wedding, misty seascapes at dawn, even the accidental light trails from a moving train. Don’t be afraid to play. That’s where the magic lives.

Final Thoughts

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Shutter speed might sound technical, but it’s one of the most powerful tools in your photography toolbox. Once you learn how to control it, you can tell stories through still images—whether you’re freezing a moment or showing the passage of time.

So take your camera, start experimenting, and pay attention to what your shutter is doing. Freeze the action. Blur the motion. And most of all—have fun doing it!

If you enjoyed this breakdown and want more quick, no-fluff tips like this, check out the rest of the Shoot Happens series on YouTube. And remember: when things go sideways, keep shooting—because Shoot Happens.

Friendly disclaimer: Our articles may contain affiliate links that support us without costing you more, and sometimes we spice things up with sponsored content—but only for products we truly stand behind!

Learn More:

• Everything You Need to Know About Shutter Priority Mode
• Why You Need to Shoot in Program Mode

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